A.B.C,

A.B.C.

Authentic Brugge Coronareport.

Jan van Eyckplein.

A view of the Coupure.

Walking along the Coupure this morning in the sun and enjoying the world as normal, almost, I was

delighted to come across a little mass of violets among the grass on one stretch, having marvelled two days ago at the sight of a little corner of blue hyacinths planted around a curve. These weren’t specifically there to cheer the solitary passer-by under lock-down but simply evidence of an inspired decision by some gardener of the Commune. Whatever! They gladdened the spirit already warmed by the sun and the glint of sky on water.

Hyacinths, to enchant.

Another touch of community-minded actions were to be seen in several notes attached to dustbin bags along Carmersstraat saying in various ways, Dank U to the men who collect the bags. And there are quite a number of white cloths from a recent demonstration of support, still suspended from upstairs windows, as a token of appreciation for health workers in the town. On a personal level I receive a call each day [reduced now from TWO a day] from a young man in my building to check that I am OK and asking if I need anything. One of my friends from the Thursday evening English-speaking club phoned me yesterday afternoon; she told me to go on my terrace [four levels up!] and wave to her as she stood on the corner of the square. We had quite a conversation, via the mobile, in full view of each other. To finish, she took a photograph of me to circulate around the other group members. It was a lovely moment or two for me in what is a solitary life in many ways, at present, though happy enough it must be said.

A recent sunset, seen from my window.

Extended periods of alone-ness increase appreciation 

of natural beauty.

It is quite extraordinary that something about the spirit abroad here and in the UK reminds me strongly of the wartime years [WW2] It is, of course, quite different but I think it is the heightened experience of Being Together in an overwhelmingly strange and dangerous situation, where the similarity of feeling occurs. Certainly, contemporary society is much more highly individualised and individually self-centred than it was in the 1940s but there is also, currently taking place, a rolling wave of concern towards others around us from we fellow travellers. Let us hope at least that some of that communal vigilance remains afterwards as countries, populations, civic societies struggle to cope and connect and construct. As I am awash with alliteration, I should mention ‘capitalism’. Will this Coronavirus change capitalism in some way? Will the constant economic growth which is the essential fuel for capitalism be seriously threatened? Where is Picketty when we need him?!!

Reflections, indeed.

Tolhuis, Jan van Eyckplein.

And now for something completely different. Reflections, in fact. With the extra time and space available now, I stood recently in the nearby Jan van Eyckplein contemplating the built landscape and marvelling anew. Last year around 8 million tourists visited Brugge many of whom undoubtedly finished up in Jan van Eyckplein for a look, a beer and perhaps a meal, but now the, Bruggean silence and emptiness are palpable and delightful to residents though unaffordable for long. This district was a hub of international trade at the turn of the 14^th and 15^th centuries; ships were loaded and unloaded here while, from the tower, merchants could watch their ships arriving. Goods were cleared and checked with customs duties paid, in the Toll House opposite and merchants from around the world formed international clubs in the vicinity which provided accommodation for them and storage for their cargo on the inward or outward journey
.

Poortersloge, Jan van Eyckplein.

The most important building in the square is the Poortersloge which was built by order of the then commercial elite, the Porters of Brugge between 1394 and 1487, who received their trading partners there. It was intended as an important meeting place for the burghers of Brugge and used also by the exclusive club, The White Bear, which organised tournaments and jousts there. The facade of the building houses statues of eminent mediaeval citizens, aldermen, famous masons, painters, mayors of the city, treasury officials, notaries, priests. The legendary first citizen of Brugge, the White Bear, was placed in his niche in 1417, though, as nothing lasts forever, all of the statues were replaced in the 19^th century by sculptors Michael Dhondt, Jules Anthone and Franz Vermeylen.

Het Witte Beer.

Originally in place in 1417.

The list of activities and users of the venerable Poortersloge over the centuries, is fascinating. After the reign of the Company of the White Bear passed, it was transformed into a fencing hall; then used by the Rhetoricians of the Holy Ghost. From 1719 to 1890 the distinguished Academy of Painting and Drawing graced the premises and gave its name to the street outside, Academiestraat. From this Academy is marked the beginning of the city’s important collection of art. Eventually, the Chamber of Commerce took over the use of the building. In fact, the original building was lost to fire on 30 January 1755 but was relatively quickly rebuilt. The premises were restored between 1899 and 1903 when an early nineteenth century annexe was removed; it was then used by the State Archives from 1910 for around a century when purpose-built accommodation was provided elsewhere for the overcrowded archival collection. Six hundred years after its construction, it has been decided to house modern art exhibitions in the Poortersloge after tentative plans were scrapped for a Maritime Museum in this venerable building.