Saturday 19 October 2019

Postcard from Brugge


In a time of what appears to be a bout of mass intellectual insanity in Britain, I thought a little postcard from Brugge might suggest a more light-hearted way of life is possible. And would certainly offer me some personal consolation for the dire straits in which my country finds itself; I am a happy  Bruggean captive who left equally beloved Britain to sample life in another country for an elderly adventure before it was Too Late! In fact, doing a spot of wandering with my son when he was briefly here recently, I noticed again several rather endearing touches about the town which I often see and which raise an appreciative smile every time I notice them.

Cafe Rose Red
For instance the golden hands suspended over a doorway which mystified me the first time I saw them, until I realised that the house is in a cobbled street alongside one of the canals, that the street is called Goudenhandrei and that the occupant of the house was merely celebrating that fact in a highly visible and amusing form. Similarly, the initially puzzling proud golden feathers perched high over a house on Spinolarei, almost in Jan Van Eyckplein, signals the skill of the man who lives below it; he is a well-known calligrapher and the golden quill boldly announces that fact. Equally eccentric but delightful are the plastic red roses which hang upside from the ceiling of the main room in the Cafe Rose Red, advertising the name in a most individual manner! Quirky and original but in no way detracting from the serious business of selling a huge range of beers to a lot of appreciative customers who turn up in droves; neither of which, (beers or customers) have any connection whatsoever with roses. I love going there!

 High spirits in Sint Jansplein
Going home on Saturday afternoon after a lovely lunch with friends a week ago, I heard deafening Abba music blasting as I walked up Wapenmakersstraat. I had no idea as to what was being celebrated or marked but I discovered that music came from an impossibly round little, highly-coloured little vehicle driven, or rather spun around, by two very happy men in matching shirts. Lots of people had stopped to admire the sight and everyone was smiling in the sun. Short bursts of silliness do lift the emotional/social temperature of a crowd or indeed, of an individual, and life becomes more fun. As Walt Whitman observed in Leaves of Grass, “Do anything but let it produce joy.” When the car had driven off still in deafening Abba mode, we onlookers all left too, smiling and savouring the silliness just observed.

In an echo of unexpected almost-silliness, there is a blocked window in a little house on the Groenerei at the Til Eulenspiegel end and it is painted with a charming scene of a couple dancing.
 But THIS is a part of the enduring charm of Brugge,
reflection in all its aspects.
It is inspired, though it is inspiration on a small scale, and always raises surprised approval from passing tourists and others. As does the up-market bicycle shop on Philip Stockstraat which sells coffee and beers from a Brussels brewery. Exceller Bikes is a bike boutique really with trendy luxury cycles and designer accessories and it always raises a smile for me that one can sit at the smart black tables outside of this splendid emporium to have a coffee. My daughter’s favourite place for a lunchtime beer!
 A closer view of the house adorned, on
Goudenhandrei.