Sunday 2 October 2016

Gardens of delight

 Verdriet van Moeders
My sister has been here for a week and, apart from talking, we do seem to have done quite a lot despite some low energy levels and variable walking stamina! We loved the concert Friday week, Verdriet van Moeders; Requiem for Mothers, which focussed on the grief of the 'earth mother', Kathe Kollwitz, mentioned before in this blog. It used her words as the epitome of maternal distress in WW1, and extracts from her writings were read during the concert by actress, Chris Lomme. The music of Vaughan Williams, Sibelius and Ravel, played by the Flanders Symphony Orchestra, wove director Petra Vermotes' creation around Kathe Kollwitz's words and was enhanced by stylish, on-screen images by Klaas Verpoest. The evening was part of the cultural commemoration of WW1 in West Flanders, Gone West, and was profoundly moving, the more so when one thinks of the contemporary indiscriminate slaughter in, for example, Aleppo. And then of how little humanity seems to have learned.

Among other visits in Bruges, was a trip, courtesy of friend Luc, to a marvellous garden in Sint Kruis belonging to a member of his wife's family. It is enormous and the history involved gives a shining example of the family continuity still possible her among ordinary families. The present garden had been the family farm belonging to Paul's

 One small end of Paul's garden
grandparents and his mother had been born there; the little school she attended was still visible just beyond the perimeter of the land. Paul had inherited part of the little estate and, I think, bought out his siblings to gain full ownership so that his passion for gardening could have full rein. Over the years, there has been a gradual and almost organic development; the animals he once kept there,   sheep and rabbits, have gone and there is simply an extraordinary garden now, with quite a large house and other buildings, one a reclaimed cow shed. Outside the latter is a huge stone table on sturdy concrete supports; it is made from four majestic stone tablets each of which used to mark the boundary of the space in which each milking cow stood. It is the most extraordinary garden I have seen, especially one which somehow captures some of the history of the place while being aesthetically beautiful. The house remains renovated and extended but empty waiting for Paul's retirement next year. In the meantime, he and his wife focus on their labour of love, to maintain and gradually modify this historical and magical place. 
View from the garden of one room adorned with
heraldic columns painted by Paul's daughter.

Paul is an admirer of English gardens including Sissinghurst and Great Dixter, with Christopher Lloyd's marvellous sense of colour judged masterful. Paul loves Sissinghurst but judges it as a 'beginning garden' because the concept of 'rooms' with one colour [the White Garden] seems to him too simplistic. I love Vita Sackville-West's sophisticated notion of a garden divided into rooms through which one may wander, with seasonal variations in colour and form to delight the senses. However, I was unable to justify it to Paul's satisfaction! He does have firm ideas for his own kingdom, absolutely necessary to achieve the on-going transformation so far, particularly as he employs no help beyond that of his equally energetic wife!


 Luc Vanlaere





A
much enjoyed visit we later made was to the Oud Sint Jan site to see and to hear Luc Vanlaere give one of his popular, free concerts. He is a superb harpist but has added to his collection of harps, other musical instruments like Chinese singing bowls, and many-stringed instruments based on Indian and Japanese music which he has built himself. Luc writes his own material too, including a few haunting songs, and sells his CDs after the free concert. It is difficult to describe the music which appeals on several levels; it is atmospheric, soothing, musical in the best sense, and spiritually nourishing in the same way. I am always surprised when I go, to see how very many tourists are in the audience, that is until I have just been online and discovered that Trip Advisor ranks him as the No 1 attraction in Bruges! Other splendid works of art like the Memlings near to his little concert room, might take exception at that billing, but Luc is undoubtedly and deservedly, both talented and popular.

The White Garden, Sissinghurst


 
The Orchard Garden, Great Dixter