Wednesday, 17 October 2018

Adriaan Brouwer

In tune with the continuing late golden weather, [Indian summer indeed though, alas, attributable to global warming.] on Tuesday October 16th I had a lovely sunlit day out in Oudenarde with a friend. The energy ran out unfortunately before we had time to explore the town but the Grote Markt was a delight which welcomes the visitor. The journey took longer than I had expected and we needed an immediate coffee, located at one of the cafes on the sunny Markt, before embarking on the purpose of our visit: to see the exhibition on Adriaan Brouwer: Master of Emotions. Publicised as in the Mou Museum, we discovered that meant it was in the truly handsome 17th century Stadhuis which houses the town museum. The exterior of the Stadhuis is beautiful, surely one of the most intricate and ornamental in the whole of Belgium. What impressed inside was the stylish and effective way the huge old building has been skilfully adapted to house the Museum and exhibition spaces. It is exemplary.

I am rather embarrassed to admit that I had never heard of Adriaan [also spelled as Adriaen] Brouwer but now, I am becoming an A.B. bore! He was born between 1603 and 1605 in Oudenarde, the son of a draughtsman for tapestry cartoons, a thriving industry in the town from 1368. In 1622 he moved to Antwerp and was influenced by both Pieter 11 Breughel and Frans Hals,
The Smokers.
The main figure is generally reckoned to be
Adriaan Bouwer
in one of his favourite settings.
the latter of whom he is often reputed to have been a pupil though no definite proof has emerged. By 1631 Adriaan, after living in Harlem, was back in Antwerp where he was imprisoned at one point; perhaps by the Spanish for espionage; perhaps for high levels of debt. He died in poverty in 1638 and his body was originally thrown into a communal plague pit but was soon rescued by one of his fellow artists and an admirer, Rubens, and given full burial honours in the Carmelite Church in Antwerp.

The exhibition of almost half of his known works of 60, on loan from the U.S, Europe and the U.K., traces his short but brilliant career. In fact, he became famous for his genre paintings with his work depicting, almost exclusively, low life in bars or among peasants and farmers, card players, smokers and drinkers [when tobacco was a fairly new phenomenon and very popular]. He seems to have been comfortable in such company and never painted aristocratic groups or scenes which will, inevitably, have limited his market. However his work was collected by fashionable and gifted contemporaries like Rubens, Rembrandt and Teniers. He can be seen, in retrospect, as an important transitional figure bridging the sixteenth century Brueghel tradition and the landscape and genre scenes of the seventeenth. He did, in fact, move to painting landscapes towards the end of his life.



My personal reaction to his work in the exhibition was strong; I love his faces particularly and the humour of the situations he portrays. His groups are full of assorted rough-hewn mediaeval faces and the scenes are vibrant and wholly alive as the assorted actors leer, talk, flirt, drink too much, fight and quarrel, jeer and sing. The painter shows himself as a genial lover of the company of ordinary people with their foibles and their rough and ready lives. There is always an air of everyday low life about his scenes, skilfully portrayed in the minimum, targeted strokes of genius! Brouwer was, above all, an expert at conveying emotions and moods, sometimes including grotesque features in the pursuit of truth.

Green in every way ...

"Greens make historic gains in Belgium"
Big weekend in that I was allowed to vote for the first time in the City election. Responsibility!! I took soundings and discovered that Vlaams party meant Flanders to secede from the Walloons; not economically viable at the very least. Anything with ‘Christian’ in its name, meant, of course, descended from/via the Roman Catholic church; a definite No! No! for me…. A title with ‘liberal’ in it, means ‘conservative’ so again, not for me. There were so many shades of political stance that I completed an online questionnaire to determine to which Belgian political party I was closest. The answer was the Greens so the way was clear!! In Belgium, voting is compulsory [which I applaud] but even so I was surprised to see a small queue outside Sint Leo school at ten minutes before opening time at 8.00 a.m as I returned home from my early swim. Sunday was the first time for electronic voting in Brugge; brilliant; quick, easy, no need to count votes subsequently. I had a step-by-step sheet to guide the novice through the process but still had to ask for help. Without real Dutch I removed the card from the slot too soon and was unable to proceed. Unobtrusive help was at hand and the vote cast in seconds. It is a really quick and efficient system even for beginners.
Dirk de Fauw

Flushed with my presumed sensitivity to the local Brugge civic scene, I intended to write to the Greens to suggest they nudge De Lijn, the bus company, to invest in a fleet of electric buses and use Brugge as a test run for the country. Plus, to urge it to push for restricted car use in the centre. That is until I checked and discovered that I was too late as usual! This month the decision was made by the Brugge council to close the main streets to traffic each Saturday and the first Sunday of each month, from February 1st 2019, between 10.00 and 18..00. So, well done Brugge and well done De Lijn who have invested in over 120 electric buses for Belgium, with three operating in a small test project in Brugge. Meanwhile, a larger De Lijn pilot project will begin in 2019 in Antwerp, Ghent and Leuven with wireless charging. Brugge's project is testing batteries using cable charging.
One of the electric buses in Brugge

Apparently Bruggean air is of a very poor quality in the centre. The bus routes were changed in January of this year to remove them, chiefly, from the main streets and, in addition to next February's plan, cars could be banned on certain week-days, or staggered use permitted, say each car allowed three days a week only in the centre. Publicity for electric
cars could be increased and re-charging stations begun to be established. There are numerous permutations possible. The new Burgemeester [Dirk de Fauw] and his Council will be as exceptionally conscious of the aesthetics of the city as the previous incumbents, regarding both domestic and commercial buildings; colours for houses to be painted; designs for modifications to houses and shops; rules for trash [fines
Calicarpa Bodiniere
for putting out rubbish on the wrong day; plastic blue sacks often refused because of some unknown infringement]; very strict parameters for materials for road repairs; signage. The list is almost endless and it is worthy and effective. Tourists don’t want to see the historic street-scape spoiled in any way and they are the life-blood of this town. However, tourists don’t see, or therefore notice, poor air quality but residents increasingly do and they need better!

My little terrace continues to enchant and harbour, though tinges of Autumn are beginning. Walking home along Wapenmakersstraat on Friday, I stopped at the most irresistible shop in Brugge; a plant shop which, though it specialises in cacti and often has some beautiful bonsai in the window, offers a very good range of garden plants. As I have remarked several times, I can buy no more plants otherwise there will be no room for people on the terrace; however, there was a gorgeous purple-berried beauty on display over which I dithered for seconds before acquiring! It is a Calicarpa Bodiniere, named after Emile-Marie Bodinier, a French missionary and botanist who collected plants in China in the 19th century. One wonders if the proselytizing or the plants were his chief passion. He certainly had a good eye for a decorative plant and one such is now gracing my tiny terrace.
Beautiful boy guarding a late-flowering fuschia