Multum in Parvo

Golden Labradors have always been my favourite breed of dog so it is particularly pleasing to report on Fidel who is one of the most famous residents of Brugge.  Here is a recent picture:

Fidel keeps watch from a canal-side gable window at the Cote Canal Bed and Breakfast on the Groene Rei and he is now something of a celeb! He is not Always There but he keeps a lengthy daily vigil and has the distinct honour of being mentioned on Trip Advisor and of making a cameo appearance at the beginning of the  super gangster film, 'In Bruges'.  Furthermore he is on the itinerary of the many tourist boats which ply the canals; each one stops, to the delight of the myriad number of photographers on board, while the guide does his spiel through a mike. Fidel treats their collective devotion with a magnificent disdain, if he is awake, or sleeps peacefully through all the activity, otherwise. To locate him, visitors need to start at the nineteenth century Vismarkt and walk around 130 metres along the Groene Rei canal; soon after the Meebrug, look left and slightly up to find him across the water. I saw a family there on Saturday, awaiting the appearance of the V.I.D* and when he appeared, stretched then leaned nonchalantly on his cushion on the balcony as it were, the group started applauding enthusiastically. Fidel remained unmoved, a  little bored perhaps by the constant  adulation.
                                                                                                                                * Very Important Dog.
The photograph below, the work of someone who knows a thing or two about photography and taken by me from the Internet, gives a superb idea of the context in which Fidel makes his daily appearances onstage:

Fidel is to the left in the dappled shade.

While on the subject of composed animals ignoring irrelevant humans, I  should introduce a delightful cat who is always seen serenely grooming herself in the window of a lovely shop towards the end of Katelijnestraat, quite near the school which I currently attend in an effort to begin to learn Dutch. She sits, oblivious to tourists and other irrelevant persons tapping on the window in an effort to get a good picture, and just concentrates on her private ablutions or her catnap. Here she is:

She isn't shy; just disinterested in looking street-wards which is why I went back into the shop where I had already spent about half an hour, to catch her pretty face. She is called Stracciatella after the stripey, chocolate and vanilla Italian ice cream. Her owner, Nathalie, is a magnificent calligrapher which is why her shop is so irresistible to me. It has hand-made books and paper of different sizes, framed calligraphy proverbs, sayings, comments and other charming calligraphic [is that a word?] maxims, dictums and wise words, just mounted on lightweight blocks of different sizes. No hackneyed phrases and cliches. In brief, an artistic and minor literary paradise as well as feline heaven for some.

And now for something completely different. Last weekend I discovered that the brass shells that one sees set into the paving stones and cobblestones in Brugge are associated with the route to Santiago de Compostela. Astonishing; had idly wondered many times when visiting but never actually checked up on their significance. They seem to be dotted around the old city, though there may well be a pattern as they marked a way through the mediaeval city. Whatever, they are just beautiful:

The early mediaeval pilgrimage route to Galicia, in Spain, to the shrine of St James in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela [Field of stars] could be accessed at different places though the start of it was reputedly at the Cathedral in Canterbury. The brass shell, set into the ground at various intervals to mark the route, came about as the emblem for the legend of St James who was supposed to have emerged from the sea, miraculously saved from death and covered in scallop shells. There are variations on this theme I believe. The shell became the symbol for St James and was carried by mediaeval pilgrims who used it for various purposes, like drinking and as a platter for food, as well as for identification.

I had never thought of  Brugge in terms of its being a part of this most renowned pilgrimage, first referenced in the 9th century, but on reflection, it is not unexpected.  Brugge was a powerhouse in early mediaeval times, a most important European centre for both finance and banking, and for commerce. Moreover it had a strong Roman Catholic church in a world where that Church was supreme with virtually unlimited power and influence.  The R.C. Church remains important today in Belgium, though rather less powerful than in earlier times.

Friday here has been a free day, free that is from the constraints of language school. Bliss to have a teacher training day thoughtfully timetabled for one of our working days. After the Carrefour Xpress run with old-lady-bag-on-wheels, essential in a car-less life, I set off to explore. I wanted to visit a gallery, the Art Galery Groeninge at the junction of Nieuwe Gentweg and Groeningestraat but it was closed so I crossed the road to enter  through the open door into yet another Godshuis, a sixteenth century version much like both earlier and later settlements though rather more beautiful and spacious; at least, the gardens are. It is just charming, near busy streets often teeming with those modern-day pilgrims, tourists on the trail of sights and shops, but, within the high walls of the Godshuis, serenity and a calm beauty reign.  

The little houses sit on both long sides, and one short side, of a large garden, complete with a pump

 

 and what I think was a little chapel with two bare benches and little else now.

Later, back to the art gallery as I retraced my steps for home and a hot roast chicken a neighbour was picking up for me. The gallery was apparently open though locked so I rang the bell and heard the owner crashing down the stairs.  He was delightful but has obviously Got Life Sorted. He said I had to come back [it was noon and he opened at eleven] as he was cooking. However I was allowed to go into the garden which is delightful with a little exhibition of small bronze figures amid flowering plants and shrubs. 

I shall definitely go back when I can manage to get the timing right!  I want to see inside.

Brugge Triennale 2015

• ©HeHEvery year, five million tourists visit Bruges. What if they all decided to stay? What if a smalEvery year, five million tourists visit Bruges. What if they all decided to stay? What if a small, preserved, historic city should suddenly become a megapolis? This is the premise for the Bruges Contemporary Art and Architecture Triennial 2015.
• l, preserved, historic city should suddenly become a megapolis? This is the premise for the Bruges ConteEvery year, five million tourists visit Bruges. What if they all decided to stay? What if a small, preserved, historic city should suddenly become a megapolis? This is the premise for the Bruges Contemporary Art
"Every year, five million tourists visit Bruges. What if they all decided to stay? What if a small, preserved, historic city should suddenly become a megapolis? This is the premise for the Bruges Contemporary Art and Architecture Triennial 2015.
•  and Architecture Triennial 2015.
• porary Art and Architecture Triennial 2015.

This scenario opens up a plethora of possibilities and challenges. Would a small city be capable of coping with the dynamics of a metropolis? And conversely: could a city on a human scale contribute to a new, better form of urbanism?

Eighteen international artists went to work on this idea. They created new works that can be viewed on an art trail through the centre of Bruges. The artists pose questions and reflect on the future and potential of the city, of urbanisation, citizenship, lifestyle, community, economics, energy, space, sound and the values that guide us.Three indoor exhibitions illustrate the concept of ‘city’ – in visions, dreams and real-life images - as a living, growing and evolving organism."

 The above is a prolonged quote from the Brugge Triennale 2015 website and explains, rather better than I might, the concept behind the extraordinary city trail of installations exhibiting from this week until the end of the Triennial in October. I set out on Saturday, to locate some of the art works and  the fruits of my Ipad photography are recorded below. Perhaps the exhibits are even more startling given the serene and chiefly homogeneous nature of the mediaeval architecture in this beautiful little city. Brugge is provincial and traditional and the exhibits are international and ultra modern. They challenge the eye and the expectation.

 

Uber Capitalism is situated almost in the Burg, the ancient seat of government and of the Holy Blood. The large statement spins slowly and silently as one watches with the inexorable message.

And the structure above, by Song Dong, is Doing Nothing Doing in front of Sint Salvatorskathedral, and each time I have passed by, has been attracting lots of young families who are all doing something, mainly playing. It encourages, invites, exploration by the young and for adults, it is certainly challenging and questions perceptions. And the juxtaposition of the apparently ramshackle, distorted construction before the majestic Gothic cathedral is arresting.

Here is a house in the water on the Groene Rei; it is called Cataract Gorge, Brugge stormt and reflects beautifully on Romy Archituv, the creators. It is enchanting, quite magical. I am not sure of the significance of the title but 'storm', the noun, means both tempest and applause.

And, on the theme of houses, one of the indoor concepts was for Vertically Integrated Socialism.

an experimental housing hypothesis that integrates the social class pyramid into one single building. Tenants who live off state support live free of charge on the ground floor of an apartment building. The floors above house increasingly better-off social classes, which each pay the rent of the class below them. This implicitly acknowledges the social and economic inequalities of contemporary society and suggests one possible, possibly idealistic, solution. The idea of Nicolas Grenier.

I had gone out on Sunday afternoon to see if I could catch the promised kayak races and immediately bumped into two friends with the sister of one, on the Carmeerbrug near to where I live. So I had tagged along and the anticipated hour or two, turned into about four, as we wandered with the crowds, along the Langerei to see some of the installations and whatever else there was to see. The weather was sunny to celebrate this day of the opening of the Triennale and along the relaxed meander, we saw the above model. When I asked about it, only then did I discover the delightfully optimistic concept though was assured, 'No it won't be built; it's just an interesting idea'. There was a mock-up near the model of what I think must have been one of the free social housing flats on the ground floor. It was Seriously Tiny but ever-so-chic with the smartest, tiniest loo ever. Designed, I imagine, for a person with few possessions. The idea of the penthouse on the top of the pyramid looked distinctly attractive though the occupant would presumably have been responsible for some serious rental costs of those below as well as for his own domain. One wonders if Socialist Rich tenants, fully in tune with the Vertically Integrated system, exist? Oh,brave new world.

Because I was with the Bruggean friends I discovered a place I would never have seen; we wandered through a buttercup-strewn meadow [normally not open to the public]

to a space beyond with lock-up garages and a large-ish house, all in a spacious area of neglected land. People in yellow T shirts with Stoer Huus were buzzing enthusiastically around to show the plans for an intended development there of social housing. SO much more effort, resources and interest for social housing here; quite warms the heart. The garages, see below:

will be demolished and the large space will have 29 terraced houses with one to three bedrooms , a community centre, library/resources centre and play area with the intention of providing the context for a real sense of community to develop. The accommodation will be Green and Stoer Huus is a Danish organisation which does not surprise me.

Later, we failed to see the advertised raft race though we saw a group of Sea Scouts  staggering under the weight of a heavy raft, along the street to the water, ready to go, and when we had walked along the canal a little further, came across three strong young men, two rowing vigorously and one wrestling with a sail which he eventually erected to loyal cheers from onlookers on the bank. When the sail was up, the rowers stopped and so did the raft.

I had, in fact, gone to the Langerei earlier, at around 11.30, in time, it transpired, to miss the mayoral speech but in good time to join the crowd there, dense on the bridge, but sparser below on the specially constructed platform I had admired in construction in the weeks before:

I rather fancied a walk along the platform as the crowds were thin there, unlike the crush above. So I jostled my way through the  throng to join the queue to enter through special wooden gates erected for that purpose. But there was no movement at all; I asked the girl in front who didn't know why the queue wasn't moving, but the man in front of her said, 'It's not the space available, it's the capacity, the weight. It might sink'. Strangely this quite deterred me so I said to no one in particular, 'Think I'll go and buy a beer instead'. Everyone it seemed had a glass of Brugse Zot in hand. ' Oh the beer's free to celebrate the opening of the Trienniale',  the man said and off I shot to fight through a crowd at one of the three outdoor bars.

This sort of thing, the free beer certainly, but the whole inclusive nature of the celebrations for the Triennale, speak volumes for the civic awareness of fostering good community relations and a pride in Brugge itself and life here. Most of the celebrations for the opening day involved community; Sea Scouts giving free boat rides in the morning; raft race, Brugge Canal Swimmers' Club in the water; lots of volunteer help on outdoor bars and in marshalling crowds during the peak morning attendance; volunteers with explanations of the Stoer Huus project. It is the sort of community hands-on involvement one sees in Britain in villages for street parties, fetes and so on, but less often for events in tourist-destination cities. It is admirable and enables a solid, proud, inclusive civic life to flourish here alongside the five million tourists a year.