Fidel keeps watch from a canal-side gable window at the Cote Canal Bed and Breakfast on the Groene Rei and he is now something of a celeb! He is not Always There but he keeps a lengthy daily vigil and has the distinct honour of being mentioned on Trip Advisor and of making a cameo appearance at the beginning of the super gangster film, 'In Bruges'. Furthermore he is on the itinerary of the many tourist boats which ply the canals; each one stops, to the delight of the myriad number of photographers on board, while the guide does his spiel through a mike. Fidel treats their collective devotion with a magnificent disdain, if he is awake, or sleeps peacefully through all the activity, otherwise. To locate him, visitors need to start at the nineteenth century Vismarkt and walk around 130 metres along the Groene Rei canal; soon after the Meebrug, look left and slightly up to find him across the water. I saw a family there on Saturday, awaiting the appearance of the V.I.D* and when he appeared, stretched then leaned nonchalantly on his cushion on the balcony as it were, the group started applauding enthusiastically. Fidel remained unmoved, a little bored perhaps by the constant adulation.
* Very Important Dog.
The photograph below, the work of someone who knows a thing or two about photography and taken by me from the Internet, gives a superb idea of the context in which Fidel makes his daily appearances onstage:
Fidel is to the left in the dappled shade.
While on the subject of composed animals ignoring irrelevant humans, I should introduce a delightful cat who is always seen serenely grooming herself in the window of a lovely shop towards the end of Katelijnestraat, quite near the school which I currently attend in an effort to begin to learn Dutch. She sits, oblivious to tourists and other irrelevant persons tapping on the window in an effort to get a good picture, and just concentrates on her private ablutions or her catnap. Here she is:
She isn't shy; just disinterested in looking street-wards which is why I went back into the shop where I had already spent about half an hour, to catch her pretty face. She is called Stracciatella after the stripey, chocolate and vanilla Italian ice cream. Her owner, Nathalie, is a magnificent calligrapher which is why her shop is so irresistible to me. It has hand-made books and paper of different sizes, framed calligraphy proverbs, sayings, comments and other charming calligraphic [is that a word?] maxims, dictums and wise words, just mounted on lightweight blocks of different sizes. No hackneyed phrases and cliches. In brief, an artistic and minor literary paradise as well as feline heaven for some.
And now for something completely different. Last weekend I discovered that the brass shells that one sees set into the paving stones and cobblestones in Brugge are associated with the route to Santiago de Compostela. Astonishing; had idly wondered many times when visiting but never actually checked up on their significance. They seem to be dotted around the old city, though there may well be a pattern as they marked a way through the mediaeval city. Whatever, they are just beautiful:
The early mediaeval pilgrimage route to Galicia, in Spain, to the shrine of St James in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela [Field of stars] could be accessed at different places though the start of it was reputedly at the Cathedral in Canterbury. The brass shell, set into the ground at various intervals to mark the route, came about as the emblem for the legend of St James who was supposed to have emerged from the sea, miraculously saved from death and covered in scallop shells. There are variations on this theme I believe. The shell became the symbol for St James and was carried by mediaeval pilgrims who used it for various purposes, like drinking and as a platter for food, as well as for identification.
I had never thought of Brugge in terms of its being a part of this most renowned pilgrimage, first referenced in the 9th century, but on reflection, it is not unexpected. Brugge was a powerhouse in early mediaeval times, a most important European centre for both finance and banking, and for commerce. Moreover it had a strong Roman Catholic church in a world where that Church was supreme with virtually unlimited power and influence. The R.C. Church remains important today in Belgium, though rather less powerful than in earlier times.
Friday here has been a free day, free that is from the constraints of language school. Bliss to have a teacher training day thoughtfully timetabled for one of our working days. After the Carrefour Xpress run with old-lady-bag-on-wheels, essential in a car-less life, I set off to explore. I wanted to visit a gallery, the Art Galery Groeninge at the junction of Nieuwe Gentweg and Groeningestraat but it was closed so I crossed the road to enter through the open door into yet another Godshuis, a sixteenth century version much like both earlier and later settlements though rather more beautiful and spacious; at least, the gardens are. It is just charming, near busy streets often teeming with those modern-day pilgrims, tourists on the trail of sights and shops, but, within the high walls of the Godshuis, serenity and a calm beauty reign.
Later, back to the art gallery as I retraced my steps for home and a hot roast chicken a neighbour was picking up for me. The gallery was apparently open though locked so I rang the bell and heard the owner crashing down the stairs. He was delightful but has obviously Got Life Sorted. He said I had to come back [it was noon and he opened at eleven] as he was cooking. However I was allowed to go into the garden which is delightful with a little exhibition of small bronze figures amid flowering plants and shrubs.
I shall definitely go back when I can manage to get the timing right! I want to see inside.
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