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The Chapel of the Holy Blood built 1134-1157, to
house the Holy Relic. |
Thursday
last, Ascension Day, is BIG in Brugge! As I had dear old friend Derek
staying, we decided to buy a seat on the Dijver where the Holy Blood
Procession starts. I have never seen the whole length of the
procession before, [around two hours to pass] contenting myself once
just walking along with it, taking photos from time to time. Last
year with a visiting friend, we sat on the ground near the
Stadstheater to watch. But the seat on a bench gave the best
experience I think.
Brugge residents, 1700 of them this year, perform the historical re-enactments.
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1887 statue in Brugse Markt of
Jan Breydel & Pieter de Coninck |
The
parade is roughly divided into two halves; the first, Religious with
stories from the Old Testament, the Creation to the prophets,
followed by the New Testament, the Birth to Pentecost; the second,
Historical. The historical half tells the narrative of the journey of
the Relic to Brugge and then representatives of the Noble Brotherhood
of the Holy Blood guard the priests who carry the Relic with great
attendant ceremony. The centrepiece of the Procession is the Holy
Relic, a cloth with allegedly the blood of Christ on it, brought to
Brugge by Thierry, Count of Flanders after the 12
th
century Second Crusade. The actual procession was instituted in 1303
to celebrate the deliverance of Brugge from French tyranny by the
folk heroes, Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck in the previous year.

The
costumes this year were amazing, colourful, creative, extravagant, reputedly obtained at a cost of 1 million euros funded by the National Lottery. And then there were the animals, as usual though unexpected to the casual
tourists. Two flocks of sheep; a large bull, dromedaries; donkeys including a baby;
hawks; rabbits; many, many horses with knights, ladies, emissaries,
mounted, or the heavy Flemish horses pulling huge carts with static
scenes on board including trees, thrones, courtly theatre, and a
convincing [but artificial] serpent writhing realistically. There
were marching bands, choirs, dancers, jesters, messengers announcing;
peasants sweeping up the detritus from the animals [and receiving
enthusiastic support from the watching crowd], choreographed scenes
galore with at least four representations of Jesus. A cornucopia
indeed much enjoyed by around 100,000 people densely packing the
pavements around the city.
In the
morning, the Holy Relic was collected from its safe-keeping in the
Chapel of the Holy Blood in the Burg, and taken to the Cathedral for its
veneration and a celebration of Mass. The Procession eventually
finished in the Burg with a Benediction of the Relic.
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The hexagonal golden shrine was created in 1617. |
As we
sat and marvelled at the passing spectacle, I was astonished that
everyone on the many benches all stood up to venerate the Holy Blood
as it passed. It underlined the awe with which, so many centuries
later, the Relic still arouses deep belief and reverence in so many.
The whole Procession is still loved and respected by both the
townspeople of Brugge and visitors who live in a world so far apart
from the life of its mediaeval beginnings. Indeed, to be a performer in the procession is a matter of some pride to Bruggelingen; surely a strong element in creating a cohesive society.
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The Holy Relic housed in a glass-fronted gold case closed
at each end with gold coronets decorated with angels.
Bears the date May 3 1388. |
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Many small children took part alongside parents |
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... but all age groups were fully represented. |