Monday, 3 June 2019

Heilig Bloed Processie


 The Chapel of the Holy Blood built 1134-1157, to
house the Holy Relic.
Thursday last, Ascension Day, is BIG in Brugge! As I had dear old friend Derek staying, we decided to buy a seat on the Dijver where the Holy Blood Procession starts. I have never seen the whole length of the procession before, [around two hours to pass] contenting myself once just walking along with it, taking photos from time to time. Last year with a visiting friend, we sat on the ground near the Stadstheater to watch. But the seat on a bench gave the best experience I think.

Brugge residents, 1700 of them this year, perform the historical re-enactments.
 1887 statue in Brugse Markt of
Jan Breydel & Pieter de Coninck
The parade is roughly divided into two halves; the first, Religious with stories from the Old Testament, the Creation to the prophets, followed by the New Testament, the Birth to Pentecost; the second, Historical. The historical half tells the narrative of the journey of the Relic to Brugge and then representatives of the Noble Brotherhood of the Holy Blood guard the priests who carry the Relic with great attendant ceremony. The centrepiece of the Procession is the Holy Relic, a cloth with allegedly the blood of Christ on it, brought to Brugge by Thierry, Count of Flanders after the 12th century Second Crusade. The actual procession was instituted in 1303 to celebrate the deliverance of Brugge from French tyranny by the folk heroes, Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck in the previous year.

The costumes this year were amazing, colourful, creative, extravagant, reputedly obtained at a cost of 1 million euros funded by the National Lottery. And then there were the animals, as usual though unexpected to the casual tourists. Two flocks of sheep; a large bull, dromedaries; donkeys including a baby; hawks; rabbits; many, many horses with knights, ladies, emissaries, mounted, or the heavy Flemish horses pulling huge carts with static scenes on board including trees, thrones, courtly theatre, and a convincing [but artificial] serpent writhing realistically. There were marching bands, choirs, dancers, jesters, messengers announcing; peasants sweeping up the detritus from the animals [and receiving enthusiastic support from the watching crowd], choreographed scenes galore with at least four representations of Jesus. A cornucopia indeed much enjoyed by around 100,000 people densely packing the pavements around the city.

In the morning, the Holy Relic was collected from its safe-keeping in the Chapel of the Holy Blood in the Burg, and taken to the Cathedral for its veneration and a celebration of Mass. The Procession eventually finished in the Burg with a Benediction of the Relic.

 The hexagonal golden shrine was
created in 1617.
As we sat and marvelled at the passing spectacle, I was astonished that everyone on the many benches all stood up to venerate the Holy Blood as it passed. It underlined the awe with which, so many centuries later, the Relic still arouses deep belief and reverence in so many. The whole Procession is still loved and respected by both the townspeople of Brugge and visitors who live in a world so far apart from the life of its mediaeval beginnings. Indeed, to be a performer in the procession is a matter of some pride to Bruggelingen; surely a strong element in creating a cohesive society.
 The Holy Relic housed in a glass-fronted gold case closed
at each end with gold coronets decorated with angels.
Bears the date May 3 1388.
 Many small children took part alongside parents
 ... but all age groups were fully represented.