Quelle Europe Pour La Nouvelle Generation?

A friend told me of a visit by the Ministre Francais de l'Economie, de l'Industrie et du Numerique to give a lecture to students and other interested people at the Verversdijk campus of the College d'Europe, here in Brugge. Now this sounded interesting and, despite the fact that the two operational languages of the College are French and English, I did not expect a famous French

minister to speak in the language of  Perfidious Albion. I was not disappointed and though my meagre French was insufficient, I gathered enough to understand the gist of what he was saying and, more importantly, I was able to savour the occasion. The Minister in question was Emmanuel Macron and I was initially impressed with the fact that despite an official limousine bearing the Ambassador, he chose to walk from the station; quite a hike actually. He was clearly admired by his chiefly young student audience and had a youthful energy and appearance that commanded attention and respect. De Standaard did an interview with Macron on the train between Brussels and Bruges en route to the lecture [full of interesting-looking stuff which I shall eventually understand.] The interviewer referred to the Minister as 'the hottest kid in town' in Parisian politics! The photo right shows Monsieur Macron speaking to Monsieur le Recteur of the College d'Europe, Jorg Monar.

 

He spoke of the initial promise of a border-free Europe and insisted that it remains a construction economique, socialistique, pratique, a construction which despite its present fragility, is in a profoundly historic moment and must go forward with projects towards 'other tomorrows'. It was quite heady being in an atmosphere wholly supportive of Europe and convinced of the importance of this historic concept. The young audience was so enthusiastic as was M. Macron, about Europe and its future; so refreshing after the daily news from the Leave Europe campaign in the UK. I DO feel European and hope above all that the June vote manages to cling on to common sense and do what's best for the UK while leaving the Conservative Party to continue its internal warfare. Since writing that, President Obama has weighed in heavily today to urge the UK to remain in Europe. Another voice of reason and judgement.

But back to last Monday and the College. I picked up a  leaflet listing College of Europe Alumni 'Holding High Positions' including students from the 1950s onward. Glancing idly through the pages I was quite excited to find names I knew. Some, not unexpected: Nick Clegg, Leader of the Liberal Democrats , Deputy Prime Minister 2010-2015; Member of the European Parliament 1999-2004 and M.P from May 2015. Others, less so: Simon Hughes, M.P. since May 2010; President of the Liberal Democrats 2004-2008; Stephen Kinnock, M.P. for Aberavon since May 2015; Director, Head of Europe and Central Asia of the World Economic Forum, 2009-2012; Director of the British Council in St Petersburg 2005-2008.

I had had no idea of Stephen Kinnock's so far illustrious career with little mention in the British media of his name until it was as the spouse of the then Danish Prime Minister, Helle Thorning-Schmidt. But then, Neil Kinnock was never the darling of the right wing press; difficult to imagine the successful son of a Conservative Prime Minister being ignored by the newspapers!

And from the sublime to the absolutely perfect 70th birthday party! Just back from happy hours spent in a super tall house in one of the 'ordinary' streets of Brugge where front doors open directly from the pavement on to often quite splendid period interiors. 'Twas in such that about fifteen chiefly English women gathered this afternoon to celebrate a 70th birthday; all there meet every week in a central hotel for a coffee and chat and of course, friendships develop or strengthen. The happy birthday girl, looking much younger than her seventy years, greeted us all with bubbly served by the lady of the house masquerading as a cinema ice cream seller. Eventually, up to the erstwhile attic space, now kitted out handsomely as a tiny cinema to see Alan Bennett's The Lady In The Van. Wonderful film, deeply comfortable chairs including five formerly the property of King Baudouin, complete with discreet crest on the back. Then down two flights of stairs to have tea and cake. Great fun and a birthday celebrated in style!

 

De Ronde Van Vlanderen

A lovely sunny day developed for the start of the 100th Ronde Van Vlanderen last Sunday 3rd April and the historic Markt seemed totally full of bikes, supporters, spectators and of course, cyclists. Excitement was palpable, amplified by the accordion music and perhaps a guitar plus occasional strident singing launched from the temporary stage; all overlaid by the continuous, good-humoured, noisy commentary. The Ronde is a highly-regarded gruelling cycle race for professionals, starting in Brugge and finishing in Oudenaarde, 259 kilometres away. Between the two, in addition to the daunting distance, are three major hurdles to clear. The first is Koppenberg, a steeply cobbled climb; the second is the 2,200 kilometre ascent up Oude Kwaremont, the longest, paved climb in Belgium, and the third and most challenging is Paterburg, described as an absolute killer! That, too, is a steep, narrow, cobbled incline of 360 metres with the maximum gradient of 20.3%!

Cyclists were introduced and rode in single file across the temporary stage and gangway, approaching

via Steenstraat which was also lined with spectators; I could tell when it was a local favourite who swept by from the sudden activity on Smart-phone cameras and loud partisan cheers from onlookers. Knowing nothing and understanding nothing from the commentary did not prevent me from enjoying the spectacle and especially, the happy, involved atmosphere. Cafes and restaurants in the Markt overflowed and many spectators carried their own beer supply! Children were hoisted aloft shoulders to see and cheer local favourites and the sheer good-natured presence and commitment of the thousands there, was intoxicating and life-enhancing. A tonic indeed after the atrocities in Brussels and that anti-life message.

The Ronde was one hugely public, very important occasion in Brugge and indeed, in Belgium. Another

much quieter, more private procedure had occurred during the week before Easter. Frank Deleu, Carilloneur of Bruges, worked for hours with Paul Van den Abele, to do the biennial task of changing the music of the automatic carillon which plays every quarter of an hour. From the picture one can guess at the huge effort and amount of time needed to achieve this. Frank says the drum can be compared to a huge music box with pins that lift up hammers on the outside of the bells. The drum system pictured is from 1748 and is the biggest in the world still in action; it weighs 9 tons and there are 30,500 holes in which to programme the pins. What a work of genius is man!

The music for the next two years, chosen by Frank, features two WW1 songs from 1918: 'Till we meet again' and 'After the war is over '. Every quarter of an hour, past the hour, will come the Prologo from 'L'Orfeo' by Claudio Monteverdi. In 2017 it will be 450 years since Monteverdi was born. [Sacred moment!] Every half hour, Henri Kowalski's 'It Etait Un Fois' will be played; Kowalski died in 1916. And every quarter before the hour, will come 'Bouree 11' from 'Cello Suite no. 4 in Es by Johann Sebastian Bach. Frank asks, 'Why this? Because Bach is Bach!'

The sound of the carillon is familiar to Bruggelingen and indeed to residents of many other little Belgian towns and villages which have their own Belfort. To English ears, it is charming and joyful, reminiscent of musical boxes fashionable a century ago and so unlike the glorious music of church bells in England, also beloved of many. Until I had watched Frank Deleu playing the carillon in his eyrie, I had had no notion of the physical hard work and manual dexterity needed as well as the musical knowledge and the artistry required.

The belfry is a famous landmark in Brugge and was added to the market square around 1240 when Brugge was prospering as an important centre of the Flemish cloth industry. After a devastating fire in 1280 when all the Brugge archives were lost, the tower was largely re-built. The octagonal upper stage of the belfry was added between 1483 and 1487, and capped with a short-lived wooden spire, soon reduced to ashes and subsequently replaced by another which lasted for two and a half centuries till lost in another fire in 1741. The Gothic stone parapet was added in 1822.

The bells in the tower regulated the lives of the city dwellers, announcing the time, fire alarms, work hours, and a variety of social, political, and religious events. Eventually a mechanism ensured the regular sounding of certain bells, for example indicating the hour. The carillon appeared in the 16^th century after which the bells could be played by means of a hand keyboard. The first record of the employment of a carilloneur was in the 1604 accounts and his duties were to play songs during Sundays, holidays and market days. So Frank Deleu is the latest in a long line of proud carilloneurs
in a city which holds them in high esteem.