A.B.C.
Authentic Brugge Coronareport.
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| Jan van Eyckplein. |
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A view of the Coupure.
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Walking along the Coupure this morning in the sun and enjoying the
world as normal, almost, I was
delighted to come across a little mass of violets among the grass on
one stretch, having marvelled two days ago at the sight of a little
corner of blue hyacinths planted around a curve. These weren’t
specifically there to cheer the solitary passer-by under lock-down
but simply evidence of an inspired decision by some gardener of the Commune.
Whatever! They gladdened the spirit already warmed by the sun and the
glint of sky on water.
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| Hyacinths, to enchant. |
Another touch of community-minded actions were to be seen in several
notes attached to dustbin bags along Carmersstraat saying in various
ways, Dank U to the men who collect the bags. And there are quite a
number of white cloths from a recent demonstration of support, still
suspended from upstairs windows, as a token of appreciation for
health workers in the town. On a personal level I receive a call each
day [reduced now from TWO a day] from a young man in my building to
check that I am OK and asking if I need anything. One of my friends
from the Thursday evening English-speaking club phoned me yesterday
afternoon; she told me to go on my terrace [four levels up!] and wave
to her as she stood on the corner of the square. We had quite a
conversation, via the mobile, in full view of each other. To finish,
she took a photograph of me to circulate around the other group
members. It was a lovely moment or two for me in what is a solitary
life in many ways, at present, though happy enough it must be said.
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A recent sunset, seen from my window.
Extended periods of alone-ness increase appreciation
of natural beauty.
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It is quite extraordinary that something about the spirit abroad here
and in the UK reminds me strongly of the wartime years [WW2] It is,
of course, quite different but I think it is the heightened experience of
Being Together in an overwhelmingly strange and dangerous situation,
where the similarity of feeling occurs. Certainly, contemporary
society is much more highly individualised and individually
self-centred than it was in the 1940s but there is also, currently
taking place, a rolling wave of concern towards others around us from we fellow travellers. Let
us hope at least that some of that communal vigilance remains
afterwards as countries, populations, civic societies struggle to
cope and connect and construct. As I am awash with alliteration, I
should mention ‘capitalism’. Will this Coronavirus change
capitalism in some way? Will the constant economic growth which is
the essential fuel for capitalism be seriously threatened? Where is
Picketty when we need him?!!
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| Reflections, indeed. |
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| Tolhuis, Jan van Eyckplein. |
And now for something completely different. Reflections, in fact.
With the extra time and space available now, I stood recently in the
nearby Jan van Eyckplein contemplating the built landscape and
marvelling anew. Last year around 8 million tourists visited Brugge
many of whom undoubtedly finished up in Jan van Eyckplein for a look,
a beer and perhaps a meal, but now the, Bruggean silence and emptiness are
palpable and delightful to residents though unaffordable for long. This district was a hub of
international trade at the turn o
f the 14
th and 15
th
centuries; ships were loaded and unloaded here while, from the tower,
merchants could watch their ships arriving. Goods were cleared and
checked with customs duties paid, in the Toll House opposite and
merchants from around the world formed international clubs in the
vicinity which provided accommodation for them and storage for their cargo on the inward or outward journey
.
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| Poortersloge, Jan van Eyckplein. |
The most important building in the square is the Poortersloge which
was built by order of the then commercial elite, the Porters of
Brugge between 1394 and 1487, who received their trading partners
there. It was intended as an important meeting place for the burghers
of Brugge and used also by the exclusive club,
The White Bear, which
organised tournaments and jousts there. The facade of the building
houses statues of eminent mediaeval citizens, aldermen, famous
masons, painters, mayors of the city, treasury officials, notaries,
priests. The legendary first citizen of Brugge,
the White Bear, was
placed in his niche in 1417, though, as nothing lasts forever, all of
the statues were replaced in the 19
th century by sculptors
Michael Dhondt, Jules Anthone and Franz Vermeylen.
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Het Witte Beer.
Originally in place in 1417.
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The list of activities and users of the venerable Poortersloge over
the centuries, is fascinating. After the reign of the
Company of the
White Bear passed, it was transformed into a fencing hall; then used
by the Rhetoricians of the Holy Ghost. From 1719 to 1890 the
distinguished Academy of Painting and Drawing graced the premises and
gave its name to the street outside, Academiestraat. From this
Academy is marked the beginning of the city’s important collection
of art. Eventually, the Chamber of Commerce took over the use of the
building. In fact, the original building was lost to fire on 30 January 1755 but was relatively quickly rebuilt. The premises were restored between 1899 and 1903 when an early nineteenth century annexe was removed; it was then used by the State Archives from
1910 for around a century when purpose-built accommodation was
provided elsewhere for the overcrowded archival collection. Six hundred years
after its construction, it has been decided to house modern art
exhibitions in the Poortersloge after tentative plans were scrapped for a
Maritime Museum in this venerable building.
