Jan Van Eyck |
I had never connected the portrait with Brugge despite it being the
city of Jan Van Eyck so I was delighted to discover that it was
almost certainly painted here in 1434, probably in the Arnolfini
house of that time. Effectively comprising two full-length portraits,
the couple is shown in an upstairs room with a chest and a bed,
during a day in early summer, indicated by the fruit on the cherry
tree outside the window. The two figures are richly dressed; despite
the season, both his tabard, probably of silk velvet, and her dress,
are trimmed and lined with fur; his doublet partially hidden beneath
the tabard is of silk damask. Her dress has elaborate dragging [cloth
folded then sewn together then cut and frayed decoratively] on the
sleeves while the green of her outer dress symbolises hope, possibly
the hope of her becoming a mother. Her blue under-dress is trimmed
with white fur. The whole painting radiates wealth, privilege and elegance. Although many viewers assume the wife to be
pregnant, this was probably, simply a fashionable look for women’s dresses at
the time. Fashion would have been important for Arnolfini as a cloth
merchant as would the popular conceit that the more cloth the subject
of a painting wore, the more wealthy she was assumed to be. Giovanna's dress uses copious amounts of cloth!
The unmistakeable wealth of the clothes is echoed in the room’s
interior. Furnishings include a large and elaborate brass
chandelier; a convex mirror framed in wood which is decorated with
symbols behind glass; elaborate bed-hangings and carvings on chair
and bench; a small Oriental carpet.
Though Arnolfini was a cloth merchant, the oranges in the side may have indicated that he also dealt in these expensive fruits. One purpose of this painting is to demonstrate the prosperity and wealth of the couple but there are several conjectures as to its main celebration.
Though Arnolfini was a cloth merchant, the oranges in the side may have indicated that he also dealt in these expensive fruits. One purpose of this painting is to demonstrate the prosperity and wealth of the couple but there are several conjectures as to its main celebration.
1. It might record the wedding of the couple, Giovanni di Nicolao
Arnolfini and his bride, Giovanna
Cenami.
2. Or it could be a pictorial record of the making of a contract
between an already-married couple, giving the wife the authority to
act on her husband’s behalf in business dealings. This view is
supported by Arnolfini’s raised right hand and his taking of his
wife’s hand as a gesture of consent.
3. Giovanni’s first wife, Costanza Trenta, had died, probably in
childbirth, in February 1433. The painting could therefore represent
an unusual memorial portrait showing one living and one dead, person.
Details such as the snuffed candle in the scenes after Christ’s
death on her side of the
background roundel and the black garb of the man, support this view. The single lit candle on Giovanni’s side contrasting with the wax stub on her side, evokes a common literary metaphor: he lives; she is dead. There is also a tiny carved figure on a finial on the bedpost, probably of Saint Margaret, patron saint of pregnancy and childbirth, who was invoked to assist women in labour and to cure infertility.
background roundel and the black garb of the man, support this view. The single lit candle on Giovanni’s side contrasting with the wax stub on her side, evokes a common literary metaphor: he lives; she is dead. There is also a tiny carved figure on a finial on the bedpost, probably of Saint Margaret, patron saint of pregnancy and childbirth, who was invoked to assist women in labour and to cure infertility.
Details.
The Convex Mirror
The small medallions set in the frame of the mirror show tiny scenes
from the Passion of Christ and may represent God’s promise of
salvation for the figures reflected in the mirror. Indeed the mirror
itself may represent the eye of God observing the oath-taking
ceremony. There are two figures reflected in the mirror one of whom
is almost certainly the artist, a friend of Arnolfini, and these two
could readily be considered as witnesses to the oath-taking. Jan Van Eyck
provides additional authentication with his signature writ large upon
the wall.
The Little Dog
The little dog symbolises fidelity but may also be a lap-dog.
Lap-dogs were fashionable accoutrements and companions for ladies at
Court but this little chap, cheerfully meeting the gaze of the
viewer, also reflects the wealth of the couple and their position at
court.
The Status of The Painting
The Arnolfini Portrait is considered one the most original and
complex paintings in Western art because of its beauty, its complex
iconography, its geometric perspective and the skill demonstrated in
the expansion of the painted space with the use of one convex mirror.
Van Eyck’s use of direct and diffuse light also help to evoke space
in this domestic interior. Whatever meanings are attributed to the
scene and its details, the painting “is the only fifteenth
century Northern panel to survive in which the artist’s
contemporaries are shown in some sort of action in a contemporary
interior. It is indeed tempting to call this the first genre painting
– a painting of everyday life – of modern times.” [Craig
Harbison]
The figures in the mirror are
astonishingly visible.
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