Brugse Belofte

 

Every year, the Procession of our Lady of the Blind, Brugse Belofte, [Bruges' Promise], passes through the streets of Brugge. It honours a vow made after a battle, [one of many] between Flanders and France in 1304, the Pevelenberg, two years after the famous Battle of the Golden Spurs. To fulfil this vow, the Bruggelingen offer a votive candle to Our Lady of the Potterie Chapel, on the Potterierei, at ten o'clock on the morning of August 15. Before the ceremony, the pilgrims, dressed in authentically-reproduced historical costumes and signalling their approach to the insistent beat of

drums, slowly cross the centre of the city to Our
Lady of the Potterie for the dedication of the candle and a Mass, before processing back to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Blind in Kreupelenstraat, off the Smedenstraat. It is described as a small procession but the costumes in mediaeval style and the other accoutrements like weapons typical of the era, banners, huge cart and monumental wooden ship are impressive and colourful. I was delighted to learn, as we watched, that the blue-hooded stalwart who, as Robrecht van Bethune, Earl of Flanders [Graaf van Vlaanderen], read from a manuscript the announcement of the vow, is actually named Boudewijn van Vlaanderen in real life today. Could anything be more apt?! I only know this privileged information as he is on the same Cultural Council as two friends!

It is always impressive to consider the organisation behind these religious processions and to witness the seriousness of those taking part. As a Church annual ritual, it appeals to a wide spectrum of people from believers to mere onlookers, including  many tourist spectators. I noticed yesterday, a distinguished be-suited gentleman discreetly signalling and beckoning to the participants in the procession, for them to stop and move. It was an almost invisible direction which helped to keep the whole enterprise moving smoothly.

 I have a fondness for the Chapel of Our Lady of the Blind because some young German friends, who attend the August MA Festival each year, gave me a surprise birthday concert there for my seventy fifth birthday and another two years ago for my eightieth . So I love the place and its Baroque organ. On Tuesday last a guest, also from Germany and a teacher, Church organist and composer, gave me an impromptu concert in the Blindeken for about forty minutes. It was a wonderful Thank you gesture which I loved. Alain said how difficult it had been for him to play a Baroque organ, so different from his own in Cologne, and opened my eyes a little as a non-musician, to the extra complexities there may be in instrumental music. He is a gifted musician and organist but, nevertheless, to change instruments presented further challenges. 

I always wince at the Mediaeval, or earlier, lack of political correctness at the street name of Kreupelenstraat, Cripples' Street, in which the Chapel of the Blind finds itself. As Belgian friends don't comment, I conclude that the sometimes excessive tendency to political correctness in the UK is closer to American sensitivities than to European. However, that said, I love the historical pageant and continuity of names, festivals, processions, events in Belgium and the authentic connections and longevity they present. And the mediaeval name for the street simply reflects the societal norms of that period.

As a P.S. to the above and totally unconnected with it, must mention the lovely sights and sounds as I walked home from the MA Festival final concert last Saturday, at about 23.30. It was the annual Benenwerk [literally translated as 'Legwork'] which is a free Dance Festival at various sites and with different styles of dance. There were 13 varied styles from Disco to Burlesque to Latino, complete with live music, DJs etc, and the crowds of locals and tourists enjoying themselves around the streets and no doubt in the various chosen venues, was such fun. Pity my energy was spent but it was quite life-enhancing to see and to hear. I am seriously impressed with the number of free events which go on, especially during the summer; in August and July for instance there were lots of free concerts in the Burg, the Markt, the inner courtyard of the Belfort. All, one imagines, financed by the wealth generated by the millions of tourists who visit here. Numbers visiting have reduced this year because of the Brussels and Paris atrocities and the hope is for a gradual resumption of the normal volume. In the meantime, those who do come can enjoy the Bruges ' music and dance, together with the younger residents every August.