An Historic Trail

Sint Janshuysmolen

This blog is an adjunct to last week’s on the Lyres of Ur because the second suggestion I had for my Californian visitors was to visit the one windmill of the four remaining, which is open to the public. It is called Sint Jansshuysmolen and there is a distinct whiff of a serious ascension about the entry. One climbs up a robust ladder with a side rail at one side only and it seems a Long Way Up. To actually view the wooden machinery closely, one needs to ascend a further indoor ladder but really dear reader, it is all Worth It.

 Triumphant arrival

The windmill itself is the only one built to stand in its present place. Commissioned by the bakers of Brugge, it was constructed in situ in 1770 to replace an earlier mill belonging to Sint Janshospitaal which was blown down in 1744. It is fascinating to be in the interior and to marvel first at the lack of space. The monumental size of the wheels and the cogwheels which service the machinery [I think!] is astonishing and one feels the eighteenth century miller must have been both slight in stature and fleet of foot to negotiate the interior working areas safely and effectively. I first visited this mill in 1989 I think, with my husband Eric and loved it then but had not thought of a re-visit. My loss I think. To enter this windmill reminds a visitor of the dignity and effort of important traditional labour and the ingenuity of man in providing the means to supply essential food. A visit for me to remember.

Soon after my Californian guests and I had been windmilling, we wandered towards a possible saunter along the inner ring of canals and I remembered Cafe Vlissinghe, conveniently nearby, so we stopped off there. The nineteenth century interior never suggests to me its extreme age; it is well-preserved and cared for, comfortable and quite dark while the outside area at the rear has been seriously improved over the years since I first saw it in the 1990s when it was somewhat unkempt. Vlissinghe has been continuously open since 1515; miraculous given the Dutch, French, German,

 Cafe Vlissinghe, inside.

Burgundian predators who entered and occupied Brugge at what, from this viewpoint, seems like regular intervals over the centuries. The first recorded landlord was Jan Brey in 1515 but the building is older and can be traced back to 1485. The earliest known owner recorded is Jacob de Wulf but it is not known if the building was a tavern during his late fifteenth century ownership.

To complete a delightful day of discovery, after Luc Vanlaere’s lute/harp concert/exposition, we went to Pomperlut, a tapas restaurant opposite the children’s playground end of Astridpark. The first shock was to find the playground fenced off and dug up! Still have not found out why but continue to hope it simply means an upgrading and not a removal!!

Pomperlut in handsome 17th century building
at the corner of Minderbroedersstraat and Schaarstraat.

Entering Pomperlut which is old Flemish dialect for mushroom, is like taking a trip back in time. The seventeenth century building is almost completely covered in wood, with old chandeliers, unique lamps and a large fireplace so that one feels almost as it one has stepped back to Brugge in the seventeenth century! The ambience is warm and friendly and the food and wine were divine!!

It was a memorable experience with excellent service, all helping to generate a longing to return.