Numerous Penitents and Three Birthdays

One of the birthday girls celebrating
her 80th last year.

What a lovely week I have had, even without the much-lamented Fitbit! On the evening before my Friday birthday, the lovely Thursday group came over here for food, courtesy of Trium, and drink. The Trium food was excellent, provided with maximum kindness [even to the extent of home delivery] and minimum fuss. And the excuse to have a dozen friends round for a lively social and sociable evening was happily taken. Couldn’t have been more fun and I do hope someone sends me a photograph of me wearing the tiara provided by Kristin, which I had to make myself take off to go to bed! Added to which, against stern admonishment of No presents, they gave me a Raaklijn book token. More pleasure ahead!

Emily Dickinson; born Amherst, Massachusets 1830;
died Amherst, 1866. Lived an ascetic, prudent
separate life. Her poetry recognised only
in the twentieth century.

I celebrated with my family on Facetime mainly, and that means my extended family as both my younger sisters have their birthdays on what I always refer to as MY birthday. I had two additional treats; one friend gave me a marvellous little Emily Dickinson with bilingual poems AND took me to a coffee house unknown to me, for a delicate little Merveilleux concoction of meringue, cream, raspberries and coulis. And on Saturday evening went with another friend for mussels to a new-to-me bistro which I shall visit again. A splendidly extended anniversary though a friend of similar octogenarian age wrote idly wondering why, at our age, we continue to celebrate. Habit? Great excuse for a party? Gratitude that the only alternative to ageing, has not yet claimed us?

Today, Sunday July 30^th, by train to Veurne which I visited recently and loved, particularly the Grote Markt with the Flemish gables and other venerable architecture surrounding it. The last Sunday in July is the Boetprocessie, the Procession of the Penitents which started in 1646. It is all inspired by incidents from both the Old and New Testaments and various carts carry centuries-old sculpture groups representing scenes from the passion of Christ. It also features an extended group of hooded, barefoot penitents carrying heavy wooden crosses. The girl in the tourist office oOh it's traditional'. I reminded myself that in earlier days, there would have been stalls and a mediaeval market of sorts with merriment abounding after the procession in the Grote Markt but somehow the plastic tawdriness and deafening racket, didn’t quite capture the mediaeval spirit of joy.

n my first visit had insisted that the penitents were genuinely atoning for past crimes, which I found incredibly difficult to believe. I realise that these processions are still an important part of Flemish life and its cultural heritage, and from the hundreds of people processing plus other unseen organisers and contributors, one can easily see the extent and importance of community involvement. One does wonder if the religious significance is still as it was, centuries ago or indeed, if there is any relic of the earlier religiosity expressed. I think it is unlikely; certainly the crowds of onlookers were entertained and impressed but not overawed with any religious message or example. What DID jar was the transformation of the wonderful Grote Markt into a fairground which had the grace to stay silent during the long procession but swung immediately afterwards, into blaring action. The man in the tourist office, when I commented adversely, merely said, airily, ‘





         

 Sonorous start to the Boetprocessie

Though I did, by chance, bump into a lovely Dutch friend, in Brugge for the forthcoming MA Festival next week, and he too felt the inappropriateness of the modern plastic whirligigs and torturous-looking carousels with the stunning blast of sound enveloping the aural landscape. Judging from the happy throng, we were the only critics there! When I was professionally active, working with teenagers, I always thought that I would never

be, or feel, out of step with modern life. But there are times now when …   In fact, many times when bewilderment sets in, as when young people sit together in twos or small groups, and stay on their phones all the time. A sort of companionable separateness seems to be the order of the day!



One of the penitents, struggling with his load.

Two waiting for the Off and a helpful boy
selling chair space for two euros

                                                                        

One blissful participant regretting nothing.