The Delights of Open Monumentdag

As last week's blog was colonised by Charles 11 and the Grenadier Guards, I forbore then to mention the chief delight of that weekend which was the Open Monumentdag which gives the ordinary residents the chance of seeing behind the scenes in various properties and places normally not open to the public.

View of the servants' chapel from Onze Lieve Vrouw

I chose a follow-up visit to the renovations in the Onze Lieve Vrouw, the leading church of the city as I had visited them last year. This second phase was perhaps less dramatic but, as our guide pointed out several times, it was exclusive! Particularly impressive for me was a huge false wall behind which the current renovations were taking place. Even down to the lovely bank of seating, it was all cosmetic and designed to offer safety and comfort, in style, to the stream of tourists thronging to see the fabled Michelangelo Madonna and Child. The other impressive feature at OLV which delighted, was the tiny secret chapel, originally for the servants of the family from the Gruuthuse. There was a door and a flight of steps leading down to this chapel from above where the family itself prayed. The servants' chapel, with one door situated at least a metre above ground level, had been hidden for centuries behind a wall. A little treasure.



 Lodewijk van Gruuthuse 1422-92

 View from the kapel into OLV
 

The following day, I went to see the final phase of renovations in the neighbouring Gruuthuse which is scheduled to reopen next year after five years' closure. Again, the effects were beautiful but less dramatic than last year and I was disappointed not to see the gorgeous, partially restored tiled pavement, depicted in online publicity. I shall see it next year no doubt! The most exciting for me, this year, was the bidkapel, unrestored and unloved. This is the focus for a new crowd-funding project just beginning and was the private chapel of the Gruuthuse family whose servants descended the rough stone stairs to the little hidden chapel in OLV. The large end window in the bidkapel, looks down and over, into Onze Lieve Vrouw adjoining; thus the family need not venture into the cold or among the common herd each Sunday in order to pray.

Plus est en vous

The Lords of the Gruuthuse were Van Brugghe van de Aa, with Lodewijk, diplomat, courtier and art lover, the most famous member. The family name, Gruut, came from gruut, [barley; wheat] an essential element in beer-making before the introduction of hops in the fourteenth century. The fortunate Gruuthuse family held the monopoly for beer-making  in Flanders and the Gruuthuse Hof is testament to their wealth. The motto of Lodewijk, Plus est en Vous [there is more in you] is emblazoned prominently within the house. Among the many honours and titles conferred on Lodewijk during his distinguished career, were Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece and also the hereditary title of Earl of Winchelsea, an exceptional honour for a non-English person.

The outstanding visit however, was for me to the Huis Coudebrouc in Cordoeaniersstraat. One of the oldest houses remaining in Brugge, from the 13^th century, it lies in the heart of the mediaeval city, in front of the canal then connecting Jan Van Eyckplein and its harbour to the now departed Waterhalle in the Markt. Ships en route to the heart of Brugge would unload goods at the Huis Coudebrouc to be relayed through the enormous fan vaulted cellars to exit into Cordoeaniersstraat and eventual sale. The street itself is named after the leather workers from Cordoba who lived and worked there for centuries.

 Coudebrouc 16th century plaque

The name of the house is perhaps a derivation from Ic hou de Brouck and comes from a folk tale about the house when the daughters of the owner supposedly stole the trousers of a strange guest who was subsequently revealed to be the Devil. There is a 16^th century stone plaque on the facade of the house depicting the naughty sisters holding the trousers. However, that little fable may be a post hoc suggestion/ rationalisation/fantasy about the house already named Coudebrouc many years before.



 View of part of the huge mediaeval cellars

I loved the cathedral-like cellars, and the small niche on one wall the purpose of which was to mark the ownership of that wall and by implication, of the house. On the first floor there is a huge arch which announces a certain grandeur about the original building, obviously important in mediaeval times, and which will make a splendid feature in the subsequent transformation. The walls and cellars are thirteenth century but within the building, the renovations will tell the latest part of the long history of the Huis Coudebrouc.

 

 13th century arch in restoration in Huis Coudebrouc

Post Script

 

The advertised plans for Huis Coudebrouc include student rooms on the top floor and, as I  have noticed several times similar plans on other renovations on old houses in Brugge, I am wondering if the term, 'student rooms' is a necessary buzz word to help gain planning permission for the renovation to proceed. A cynical thought perhaps?