In Search of Statues

The same unseasonal weather as in the UK has swept Brugge this Easter, though with still quite a lot of sun. No chance of seeing my family, the seasonal pursuit here and elsewhere; one branch is in California and the rest took off on Good Friday en masse to go ski-ing in Chamonix where they should be having a great time, I hope. It is a heart-warming thought, that of happy families, doing what they love, together. It warms my heart even though, and because, I am not with them; ski-ing is the Very Last Activity I would enjoy. While wandering around Brugge looking at the statuary is exactly to my taste!

 

So, once the idea had filtered into consciousness, I set off, wandelen,  to photograph some of the statues here; the trigger, in fact, has been the news that the Burgemeester and his henchman, in a continuing attempt to update the image of Brugge from gorgeous historical mediaeval town to thrusting modern metropolis, have decided to modernise 't Zand, the huge space at the other end of Steenstraat and Zuidzandstraat from the Markt. It is already graced by the Very Modern Concertgebouw whose design is generally reviled by the townspeople though music lovers speak highly of its wonderful acoustics. I am in both camps as it happens. I love going to concerts there and think Brugge so lucky to have such a serious space for performances of various sorts. However, its design is only OK and I write that after fourteen years of trying to like it; it was built in celebration of, and tribute to, the 2002 honour of Brugge being the European City of Culture. The last time Eric, my husband, and I visited Brugge on our annual pilgrimage to the Early Music Festival in August 2000, he had spluttered with rage when we saw the emerging building. The effrontery was so powerful that he wouldn't go back to 't Zand during our stay! But, see, above, for yourselves but I should add, in fairness, that the building has received architectural accolades.

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Back to 't Zand. Part of the plan for modernisation and renewal is the removal of the huge group of statuary in the centre; this is loved for its daylight focus and sparkling jets, and its night-time light and fountains; a meeting place for many and a magnet for tourists. Apparently no decision has been made as to where its new home is to be; suggestions are requested. One couldn't make it up! The statuary is rather monumental and is of course, symbolic, but perhaps, not beautiful. The following information has been gleaned from Erik who is in my Thursday evening English group; he specialises in guided tours in English and is, to boot, keen on history. What synchronicity for me.
 

 

At the centre of the square, the largest space in Brugge, is a multi-headed fountain with four groups of statues, created by Stefaan Depuydt and Livia Canestrano in 1985-86. The four female swimmers represent the four Flemish cities of Ieper, Gent, Brugge and Kortrijk; the cloth symbolising the wealth of those cities while the crows symbolise life after death in perhaps a nod to the R.C. Church. The fishermen refer to the economical activity of the harbour of Zeebrugge and the historic bond with the sea always enjoyed by Brugge; a lock testifies to the perpetual fight against the water, to keep it under control and the plough stands for agriculture with a tribute to the Flemish polder landscape. The splendid cyclists represent tourism, the life blood of the city, and included are Tijl Uilengspiegel and Nele, Flemish folk heroes. In its entirety, the huge group exudes the solidity of continuity, shared values and Flemish pride in its inheritance.
 

Mr Google knows everything according to the solemn pronouncement of my five year old grand-daughter but alas, he can't provide me with any biographical detail of the local artists responsible for this important structure [and other public pieces of statuary in the city]. Stefaan Depuydt and Livia Canestraro must be quite important; they created a statue in Monte Carlo to Princess Grace aka Grace Kelly but details have I none!

More next time on the other Depuydt and Canestraro statues in Brugge. In fact, discovering more about the statuary here is an absorbing pastime in itself. I am sensitised now and quiver with the eagerness of the Red Setter when it spots possible prey in the distance!